Its planned completion date is pushed forward time and time again, and even after the construction is finished, it’s going to take three more years to fill the reservoir with water.

The construction of the Grand Ethiopian Renaissance Dam, located 40 kilometres from the border with Sudan, began in 2010. It was funded by government bonds, bought for years by the rich as well as regular people. The dream of a dam on the Nile was not a new one – Haile Selassie had already had this idea. Our trip has a soundtrack made of 2000 reggae and dancehall pieces a wonderful gift from Elijah’s DJ brother. He brings weed from his family fields he insists that His Highness allowed Rastafarians to grow it there. Elijah exhibits the same level of attentive devotion to rolling his marijuana joints three times a day.

Every church, chapel and wayside cross on our 1600-kilometre journey warrants a bow over the steering wheel while making the sign of the cross three times. But it was his Ethiopian Christian mother who raised Elijah and his three brothers to become devout men. His father was Jamaican and came to Africa when called upon by the emperor Haile Selassie. Elijah comes from Shashamane, the largest Rastafari community in Ethiopia. He bought it at an auction from British Embassy employees in Addis Ababa. Sometimes they say: “Hey, Rasta!” Elijah is the same age as the car. Minibus drivers, stall owners and wood-cutters tell him if it’s safe to go there. Elijah, who is driving our heavy, 31-year-old Toyota Land Cruiser, asks around every time before we take a turn off the main road.

Thrill of the chase a rocky riverbed